The Elite Shop at Costco: Learning from the Scandal of 2007
The older and more conservative about money I get, the less interested I become in trying out all the newest restaurants. Perhaps I’ve lived in the same city too long and find scarce distinction across menus; maybe I’ve dined out so much that the novelty has worn off. Whatever the case, a dinner at home with friends is now one of my favorite modes of entertainment. However, dining at home isn’t as simple as it used to be.
I’ve observed that many dinner parties these days strive for a Wow! factor. Sometimes Wow! is achieved through a simple blend of ingredients or creative dishes; sometimes the evident time and preparation for the meal does all the impressing. But now I’m noticing that hosts and guests are more often concerned about the extra-grade quality of the ingredients and what store they came from.
There’s this unspoken idea that, ‘œif it ain’t from Whole Foods, Bristol Farms, or Local-foodie-grocer, it ain’t worth serving to friends,’ which to me is flattering, and at the same time a bit crazy.
I understand the appeal of fine foods. I loved shopping at Whole Foods when I used to make more money. But now that I’m strictly shopping at Trader Joe’s, Costco and a local supermarket chain, I don’t notice much difference in quality, if at all. I’ve convinced myself that the only thing that made stuff from Whole Foods ‘œspecial’ was the price tag.
It was refreshing to read this sentiment expressed in a New York Times article about gourmands and Washington’s elite catering dinners for the politically powerful with food from Costco. But I was also a bit disturbed by the people vehemently against this trend, like this caterer:
Susan Lacz, chief executive of Ridgewells, the largest catering company in the Washington area, said she knows the trend all too well. ‘œMy gosh, it drives me crazy,’ she said. ‘œSome of the people I hear are going to Costco, I think, ‘˜Oh, you must be kidding me.”
The ultimate awkwardness, she said, is when clients want to buy their food from Costco but disguise it: ‘œThey’ll say: ‘˜Why don’t you bring the fancy glassware, and we’ll get the rest from Costco. And could you put it on one of your fancy plates? Oh, and how about some of your fancy ice cream on top?”
Ms. Lacz said she was ‘œnot going to name names,’ but that one of her best clients, a high-end retail store, told her, ‘œWe’re going to go to Costco and buy a bunch of stuff, and we want you guys to serve it.’
To which she replied: ‘œNo, you’re not.’
Even more unsettling was the idea that shopping at Costco is a style statement, like drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon beer, as explained by this food writer:
‘œReverse chic is a very powerful phenomenon in status-oriented circles,’ said David Kamp, the author of ‘œThe United States of Arugula’ (Broadway, 2006), a book about the American fine-food revolution. ‘œI think Costco is the same thing. It gets discovered.’
I highly doubt the country club crowd will start slumming it at Costco because it’s the cool thing to do these days.
The fact is that you often get a good deal at Costco or other wholesale clubs, and rich or poor, just about everyone wants a good deal. Presentation and quality of the finished products are the most important parts of hosting a successful dinner party. As long as you put sufficient time, care and attention into what you feed your friends, does it really matter what store the ingredients came from?
I think if there really is a trend of the elite now shopping at Costco, it signals that they’ve wised up, and maybe the rest of us should too. I have nothing against Whole Foods and other fine foods sellers, but I don’t get the purpose of shopping there anymore. I’ve come to associate upscale grocers less with quality and more with saying, ‘œHey, look what I can afford!’
Maybe that’s not the case, but I’m confident I can say to friends, ‘œCome enjoy this delicious feast I’ve made you,’ and not hurt my wallet in the process. I’d want for friends to be able to say the same too.
Hmmm. It’s hard to tell from the article whether the caterer in that excerpt is talking about her clients buying ingredients from Costco. From the context, it seemed like she was referring to clients who wanted to buy, say, a big box of Stouffer’s fettucine alfredo, heat it up, and put it on fancy dishes. If so, I can see her point.
I strongly believe in buying local, organic produce (for environmental reasons), and supporting local businesses. Although I would call myself frugal, it’s now out of choice and habit, rather than necessity. It would be going against my principals to shop for conventionally grown, factory-farmed food at a big-box stores, even though I would probably save money by doing so.
This applies more to stores like Walmart and less to Costco, as I’ve heard Costco provides reasonably good health care to employees and sells in bulk, which reduces packaging waste. However, they still are surrounded by acres of parking lots and sell non-local produce.
Your point seems to be “You’re paying extra for only the image of quality when you shop at snobby stores”, but I think I’m paying for something intangible but still important – social responsibility.
I think Whole Foods tastes slightly better, but I don’t shop there (my friend does, though). But using Costco makes sense, especially if you’re making something big.
For example, one of our sister buildings is having a tenant holiday party with appetizers and desserts. They’re getting appetizers from a real caterer and they’re getting a big thing of cookies from Costco.
What people sometimes fail to realize is that the oversize packages you buy at Costco and Sams ARE packed by the manufacterers for Restaurants and Caterers to begin with.
You would also be surprised at the great number of dishes served in Restaurants that are Pre-Made, Frozen, then heated to serving temps.
All you need to do is look in one of the Trade Publications like “Restaurant News” or “Restaurant Magazine” or “Pizza Today” to see what they have available to them.
A lot of times the difference is just the judicious use of Spices and Seasonings and Garnishes.
And a Foreign Name does a lot as well…
Butterflied Lamb Chop with Rosemary Pan Drippings and Whipped Potatoes = $12.95 at Joes Diner…
Papillon of Lamb, Rosemary Au Jus and Duchesse Potatoes = $26.95 at La Maison du Chef…
Same Dish.
~ Roland
John: Funny, I clipped this article out of the Times on Sunday too. You beat me to punch!
I agree with Roland, “A lot of times the difference is just the judicious use of Spices and Seasonings and Garnishes.” Add to that Sauces, Marinades, etc. It’s called cooking and unfortunately, most Americans don’t know how or want to take the time to learn which is why the gourmet grocers have thrived with their selections of overpriced prepared foods.
It boils down to preference and social responsibility when it comes to where you buy the ingredients. I still haven’t figured out the benefits of Costco, but many have and they’re cooking beautiful things.
I don’t mind shopping in various places. The biggest challenge I’ve had with Costco and some other places is that I never “know” what has happened to the food. Is it GMO? hormones? antibiotics? how about humane treatment of animals?
I tend to steer my main (i.e. fresh ingredients) purchases away from the big stores and supermarkets because I quite frankly don’t trust the whole system including the deceptive (or nonexistent) labeling. I am fortunate that I can buy local and organic from farms in the community…at least for meats, poultry, dairy, and produce.
So I DO believe it can taste better and dollar for dollar nutrient for nutrient you are getting more. For me it has less to do with what store or brand, but the actual goods.
Fun article! It definitely points to being conscious with your purchases yet not elitist.
I’m a crappy cook so any food, no matter where I buy it, will turn out nasty. Having said that, I have been a lifelong customer of Safeway and Costco. The latter even serves free a la carte breakfast on weekends(by way of food samples, heh heh). There are many avenues to indulge pretension, but being a foodie is beyond my scope and ability.
Part of this week’s Carnival of the Insanities.